London born fashion line maharishi preview their new ninja inspired collection that is set to fall in Autumn.
The Path to Stealth & The Five Pointillist Styles of Chi Gung Fu
In an era of escalating surveillance by government agencies and corporations, maharishi seek deep cover and look for inspiration in the way of the ninja – the original masters of stealth. In maharishi’s interpretation, the function of these garments is changed from one of combat preparedness, to 21st century utility, with cuts and detailing specifically suited to the needs of the international traveller.
The disruptive pattern, ‘DPM: MAHSAT Europe’ has been developed to represent satellite display imagery and is printed in bright green and red on a black base. Integrated within the design is a version of the Bonsai Forest house camouflage pattern – its natural and organic shapes infilled with a dotted pattern recalling the techniques of artists Georges Seurat and Roy Lichtenstein. This 21st century pointillism has been designed to disrupt video surveillance systems.
Other prominent colours include Emerald Green, as well as Shinobi Plum – a direct reference to the Kendo Gi. Traditional ninja and martial arts uniforms inspire elongated silhouettes including above-the-knee length crew sweats and extended length pants, as well as dropped crotches, fitted calves, built-in mittens and integrated fitted hoods.
Continuing the martial arts theme, maharishi incorporate the five animals of Chi Gung Fu in handwork embroidery and prints, in particular Tiger and Monkey styles. The forthcoming Chinese Year of the Monkey is celebrated with an embroidered tour jacket constructed in a dualistic combination – a stadium jacket styled back in melton wool, woven by renowned UK heritage textile mill Abraham Moon & Sons, and an MA1 flight jacket styled front in nylon twill.
The core ethos of ‘respect nature, utilise technology’ is reflected in the range of fabrics used; from natural fibres to the latest technical developments, from melton wool to perforated reflective glass bead nylon. Luxurious pashmina scarves are digitally printed whilst technical fabrics include Mat-AirTM by Serates – a four-way stretch waterproof and breathable nylon that features a porous micro-layer resulting in an incredibly soft touch.
Polartec Thermal Pro® fleece is used in technical sweatsuits, combined with complex pattern cutting to produce a garment with integrated armholes, articulated sleeves and a concealed mesh face mask in geometrically woven Swiss stretch Coolmax® mesh for complete identity protection. Another option to obscure the face is a baseball style cap that can be pulled down and worn over the face – the mesh eye covering still affords perfect vision for the wearer. The visor cap is heavily inspired by an element of the U.S. Army’s extreme-extended cold weather kit. Elsewhere, super black, fleece backed reflective glass bead material is used for outerwear, which is so effective at returning white light to its source, that night-lit CCTV cameras are unable to fully record the wearer’s identity.
maharishi’s perennial capsule ‘Military Archive Programme’ is expanded this season, taking previously unusable army surplus garments as a source material – such as quilted thermal layers designed to be worn under battle uniforms, which are virtually unwearable without being dramatically re-cut. This resource has been used in an entirely free way, so that lines of quilting, zip closures and seams intersect and overlap in unexpected ways, leading to entirely new configurations and forms. Adding significance to this mixing and matching is the fact that uniforms belonging to historically opposing forces are now combined into the same garment.
Director: Greedy Goons
Model: Boyd Alves